The Hill and Glenalbyn Road
[Stand on pavement outside the Stillorgan Plaza. Note the churchlike windows on the wall of the pub, these were once porthole type windows where the boys on their motorcycles used to gather in the 1960s.]
Today we start our walk at Boland’s Pub. It is situated at the cross roads in Stillorgan but back in the day it was on the south corner of the Bray Road and the Kilmacud Road, as the road down to Stillorgan Park crossing the dual carriageway didn’t exist and was only opened in 1975.
This was called the Dublin Road and was the main road from Dublin to Bray. This was also the main coach road from Dublin to Wexford when a regular service started in 1785. It became known as the Leopardstown highway after the racecourse opened in 1888.
Stop 1 Boland’s Public House built in the townland of Stillorgan South is a two storey building with many additions and alterations. It was for sale in 1925 described as being ‘on the corner of the Kilmacud Road and the Road to Bray. It had ‘eight apartments, an attractive façade with a gated entrance from the Kilmacud Road and a storage and bottling facility’. When James Boland took over in 1898, he renamed it 'The Stillorgan House' but being a well know publican, it was just referred to as Bolands. It has had numerous owners since the 1960s and has been variously called Cassidys and McGowans but in recent years it has reverted back to having 'Bolands' over the door. The original name of the pub was Grove View House.
The first family that we have found running it as a licensed premises were the Moran family who were there from at least 1867 until 1893 when the licence was transferred to Miss Mary Anne Rydall, who was a cousin. She remained there as the licensee and manager until 1898 when the public house was purchased from the Morans by James Joseph Boland. In the 1970s the men’s convenience was still outdoors and had no roof; numerous people complained of the unpleasant view from upstairs on passing buses. In 1988 it was found to be the most expensive pub in Ireland for a pint of Guinness or Harp. In 2017 it was for sale quoting 1.4 million. Over the years it has been painted various colours including royal blue, pink, mustard and burgundy. In 2021 the pub was painted totally black, that has now been refreshed and it is painted white highlighted with black. In 2022 it was for sale with a guide price of 1.5 million.
[Walk to the crossroads, turn right at the corner and follow the road down the hill.]
Just imagine an 8’ to 12’ unbroken wall on your left-hand side and you begin to understand the expression ‘all on the one side like Stillorgan’. The old road to Blackrock was at the bottom of the hill and was initially just a lane. Today there are a number of thriving business’ which occupy the single and two storey stepped down houses thought to have been built by the Medcalf family for use by Henry Darley’s brewery workers, they were later owned by the Cullen family. As well as being homes, these cottages held business; tailors and dressmakers like the Woodcock and Gill families, stonecutters including the Broe family as well as antique, sweet and electrical shops. The Hill was home to builders, painters, glaziers, grocers and bakers over the years. Some of the surnames associated with these business’ like Pender, McCann and Thornton are still found locally today.
Laying telephone cable to the Post Office in 1949 - photographs courtesy of Jeanne McHale
[Stand at pavement outside carpark of The Orchard]
For families who lived on the hill see www.youwho.ie/1911.html & https://www.youwho.ie/village.html
The building site opposite was once the post office and the OK Garage (later Esmond’s Motors). The post office was established here circa 1830 which predates the postage stamp. In 1834 Mrs Ann Carthy was post mistress. Healy, Jolly, Smith, Glynn, Kelly and Kennedy are the family names associated with the post office.
The site also included restaurants such as Shannon’s, Pings and Pappagallo but the main attraction was the Swiss Chalet which attracted families in their droves. In 1982 the building became Blakes, one of the most popular eateries in South Dublin for John O'Sullivan of Gallagher’s steak restaurant. Prawn and salmon terrine, garlic mussels, chicken princess, not forgetting the humble burger and steaks were the order of the day and to top it off there was the Knickerbocker glory and the Banana boat. The business struggled in later years and was liquidated in 2002.
Stop 2 Cullen’s Public House aka The Stillorgan Orchard built in the townland of Stillorgan was run by Michael Cullen in 1834 and when he died in 1876 the license was taken over by his widow and hence was known colloquially as ‘The Widow Cullens. It was for sale in 1894 by Christopher Cullen, as a two storey house with kitchen and 5 bedrooms. It had two shops, a grocery and a bar with a dining room and drawing room. It had stabling for 2 horses, a cow house and store room. It had two yards and both yards had an entrance gate. It was a bona fide house and in 1894 was 'upwards of 60 years in the hands of the Cullen family'. James Cullen was the next owner and when his wife Theresa was widowed in 1919, she carried on running the public house until 1962 and again it became known locally as 'The Widow Cullens'. Frank Hanley owned the public house from 1962 to 1974 and it is remembered fondly as The Stillorgan Inn. It was thatched in 1986 and Licken's boot shop was incorporated into the building around this time under the ownership of David and Brian Lavin. It was rebranded as The Stillorgan Orchard and Lavin’s Thatched Restaurant. It was purchased by the well known publican family the O’Dwyers for 2 million in 1994 and they remained in ownership until 2018 when it was sold to The Strand Gastro Pubs.
[Continue down the road and take a right on to what is now called Glenalbyn Road. Note that the pavement is quite narrow on both sides of road in places and has overhanging trees.]
This is still referred to by locals as the Old Dublin Road. Opposite the entrance to Linden Lea you will see a sewer vent pipe supplied by Tonge and Taggart dated 1911. The firm of Tonge and Taggart were established in Bishop's Street in 1869, moved to Windmill Lane circa 1906 and are responsible for a great deal of ironwork about Dublin city.
Next on the left is a bungalow called Moyvalley, this was home to Thekla Beere the first woman to head an Irish government department. Her salary of over 2K pa in comparison with a bookkeeper/typist at 500 PA. She died in 1991 and is buried in Stillorgan graveyard.
The large white house next door called Willow Garth was built circa 1902 for the Orr family related to the Thwaites family and who founded the Mineral Waters Company. Willow Garth was previously called Amana and Coolgarrif. It backed on to what was once the Stillorgan Golf Links. The O’Kelly family lived here. Their son Fergus was part of a small group which set up a wireless transmitter that broadcast a message announcing the Irish Republic in 1916 from Reis’s Chambers on the corner of O’Connell Street and Lower Abbey Street. After the rising he was imprisoned in Richmond Barracks, Stafford Prison, England and finally Frongoch Internment Camp in Wales. This was also home to John McManus, an artist and photo engraver. His daughter Una married Dick Kennedy, the owner of the OK Garage in Stillorgan and they lived here until the 1970s. Richard Noel (Dick) Kennedy in 1903 at Clonliffe Road married Agnes Carmel (Una) McManus, the daughter of John McManus and Agnes Mulvey of Coolgariff at Blackrock Church in 1935. Their first child was born at Greenfield Road, Mount Merrion and they then moved to Coolgarrif, Una’s family home. From 1942 the OK Service station repaired cars, sold second hand cars and employed local lads as petrol pump attendants. Dick was involved in the South Great George's Street Santa Charity run by the Traders Association in the late 50s and early 60s. This was a scheme where people donated faulty/broken toys, which were then repaired and given to children who might not expect a visit from Santa. The Post Office also were involved in this scheme and in one year over 70,000 toys were distributed. Dick collected the toys during the year brought them for repair, collected them and stored them at the garage until Christmas. He also provided the charity with his caravan for use as a Santa’s Grotto. In 1956 the people of Hungary revolted against the Communist government and its Soviet-imposed policies. This led to widespread hunger and the Irish Red Cross were one of the bodies that gave aid. The OK Service garage became a depot for donations of tinned goods, blankets and medical supplies. Opposite is what is now called Woodview Mews (previously Woodbine cottage and prior that the gardeners cottage on the grounds of Woodview).
[Stand at (ingress) after Churchview apartments previously Glenalbyn Motors owned by the McGuirk family.
(You are now on St Brigid’s Church Road.]
Across the road is Woodview, an imposing house painted vintage primrose. The picket gate just a chink in its surrounding high wall which would have been typical of the walls around Stillorgan.
Terrace Walk from the Burrage Collection 1808
Stop 3 Woodview built circa 1770 in the townland of Stillorgan is one of the oldest houses in the area and is visible in a local sketch of the area dated 1806. Peter Warren and his wife lived here in 1770 but how they were related to the next occupant; Alderman Nathaniel Warren, a brewer and Dublin businessman is still a conundrum. Lady Pamela Campbell lived here for a few years, she was the daughter of Lord Edward Fitzgerald, Irish aristocrat and united Irishman who was fatally wounded in the course of his arrest in 1798. Two of her daughters were married from the church next door.
The Huguenot Boileau family who were the founders of Boileau and Boyd, (a pharmaceutical firm which was only dissolved in 2016) lived here from 1833 to 1855.
The house also seems to have been used as an address for non resident couples so that marriages could take place in the church next door in the mid 1800s. This was never the Glebe house for Stillorgan Church but many of its incumbents lived here for convenience as the glebe house was on Newtown Park Avenue. It was for sale in 1843 and one of the selling points was a private entrance from the garden to the church. Parts of this land became church grounds in 1874. In 1974 part of the grounds was hived off to build an apartment block called Woodview Court.
Samuel Waters lived here for about 30 years. He was the son of Abraham Waters and Sarah Hardman nee Walker, and grandson of William Waters of Co Wicklow, both his grandfather and father were with the Irish Constabulary. Samuel Abraham Walker Waters was born in Dublin Street in Dublin, whilst his father was stationed at the Phoenix Park. When he was a baby, the family moved to Ferbane in Kings County and then to Carrick on Shannon. He was sent to school in Edinburgh and stayed with his uncle Sam Waters and afterwards worked in London for Messrs Drelenvaux & Bremmer, a German shipping broker in Mark Lane. When he was nearly 18, he moved back to Ireland to take exams in the hope of joining the constabulary. He married Margaret Helen McNab, daughter of James McNab at Castle Connell in 1872. He was accepted into the RIC and his first post was to Grange in Co Sligo. He was a friend of Captain Charles Wynn, who was son in Law to Sir Robert Gore-Booth and attended séances in Lissadell. There is a suggestion that he ran up gambling debts and this prompted his being moved to Ballyvaughan in Co Clare in 1870 where he met his future wife. A keen cricketer, fisherman and golfer, he also shot and played tennis and croquet. He was transferred to Kerry where he took lodgings and the rest of the family moved temporarily to Idrone Terrace in Blackrock. He rented Chute Hall in Kerry and the family moved in together. It was during this that six of his daughters met their future husbands. His next transfer was back to Dublin, where they took a house in Clontarf. He received a medal for his protection duty of Queen Victoria on her visit of 1900. He retired on full pay after with over 40 years’ service in 1906 and moved to Woodview the same year. Samuel died in 1936 at Woodview and left nearly 3K in personal estate.
The White family were at Woodview from 1885 to 1908. Robert White died in 1904. Over the next four years, his son also Robert, was compelled to sell the family land in Queen’s County to the Estates Commissioners and although he was recompensed for the compulsory purchase, this did not sit well with him as he would have preferred to sell the land to his tenants who he’d know all his life. He became very depressed on losing the family estate and died by his own hand aged 41 years in 1908 at Woodview, Stillorgan and is buried at Deansgrange.
A more recent occupant was Alexander Buckley. He was born in 1893 the son of Francis Robert Buckley and Jane Francis (Jennie) Cooper. He grew up in Meadowlands, Dundrum, his father was a hall porter and clerk. He and his father both enlisted, his father with the Royal Navy was stationed at Pembroke II and Alick served with The Prince of Wales's Leinster Regiment (Royal Canadians) and later as a fighter pilot. He was flying over Salonica in 1918 at 6000 feet when one of the wings was shot off. He said his prayers, grappled with the controls and managed to land his plane suffering only minor injuries. He was founder, chairman and managing director of Messrs Buckley's Motors Ltd. Initially based in Abbey Street in 1924 they were the sole distributors for Hillman, Riley and Star cars. He married Gertrude Hurley in 1931 at St Mary's Church, Donnybrook. Gertrude was the daughter of William Hurley and Emily Alberta Brien and the granddaughter of Dublin hatter, William Hurley of Adelaide Road. They lived on Eglington Road before moving to Woodview in 1937. In 1935 he opened an assembly plant on Ringsend Road and was building Humber cars. In 1949 they moved to Santry and by 1965 they employed over 400 people at the Shanowen Road plant. Here they assembled the CKD (completely knocked down) kits for the Hillman range of cars and Commer commercial vehicles for the Rootes Group. In 1966 Buckley's became a wholly owned subsidiary of the Rootes Group which was controlled by the Chrysler Corporation. He was a director of Wallpapers Ltd and Newbridge Cutlery. He set up Evode Industries Limited with Dr Herman Simon in 1954 with Alex owning 51% of the Company. Dr Simon wished to create a company in Ireland to service the shoe Industry but because of the Irish Control of Manufacturers Act, it was not possible for another country to own more than 50% of an Irish company. The name 'Evode' was derived from the word Dove with the 'e' added. Dr Simon had been the leading figure in Dove Polishes, prior to his association with Evode Industries. In 1955 an agreement was signed with Evode Limited for the rights to use the name 'EVO-STIK' in Ireland. An astute businessman he was also sole agent for BAC (British Aircraft Corporation). It is said that when Aer Lingus wanted to buy a four BAC 1-11 jets in the 1960's, the purchase had to go through Alex Buckley as the sole agent. He was a member of the Royal Irish Yacht and raced in the Dragon Class. He won numerous regattas and the Duke of Edinburgh Cup in 1953 in his Yacht Ashaka and again in 1958 with Nirvana II. Gertrude died in 1963. Alick retired in 1967 and in 1974 he moved to St Anne's on Ailesbury Road. 50 years after setting up his business Crysler made him a presentation. In his acceptance speech, he humbly remarked that he always just got by ‘on a wing and a prayer’.
They were parishioners of St Brigid's and the following memorial can be found in the church. ‘To the glory of God/and in memory of Alick and Gertrude Buckley/Late of Woodview/Stillorgan. This organ was rebuilt in 1986’. Both are buried at St Brigid's graveyard.
This house has been home to many families before finding a new lease of life as flats in the 1970s. The house and grounds were also home to many members of staff including the Kinsella family who lived in an estate cottage for upwards of 40 years.
Brookvale courtesy of Priory Studios
[Stand at green verge near bus stop.]
Stop 4 Brookvale was built circa 1780 in the townland of Stillorgan South. It was previously called Brewery House. It’s an elegant three story non-basement house, with bay timber frame windows. It's actually two houses joined together, possibly the coach house or offices were integrated as some time. It has a side entrance from Station Road (now part of St Brigid's Church Road). In 1856 the name was changed to Winton but by 1870 it was known as Brookvale again. It was for sale in 1865 and in 1950 a CPO was issued on a portion of the front garden and by Dublin County Council to allow for the widening of the Bray Road. One of the first occupants was Andrew Carton who leased the brewery from Richard Guinness Hill. Sarah Law lived her in 1861 to 1865 she was the widow of Michael law a partner in Law & Finlay’s Bank.
In 1879 Anne Elizabeth Lamb an ex Mountmellick teacher opened a school here. Together with Annie Bolton, another ex Mountmellick teacher, they prepared girls for Trinity College examinations. In 1870 following a request from Alexandra College, Trinity College had established its ‘Examinations for Women’ to offer junior and senior level examinations for girls. They outgrew the building and moved to Rathgar in 1881.
The Misses Humphreys lived here for over 30 years from 1913. Each sister received a bequest of £600 on the death of their father in 1911 and moved to Brookvale from Castlefin in Co Donegal. Lily Humphreys served as a VAD’s during the war.
There are folk that live in Canada,
There are folk that live in Cork,
There are folk that live in Italy
And Yankees in New York;
There are folk that live in London,
They may keep their banner furled
For the people in Stillorgan
Are the folk that guide the world.
Part of a poem by Lily Humphreys published in 1938.
Brookvale was for sale in 1951 described as an attractive residence with old world charm.
Grange Cottages - Courtesy of Priory Studios
[Walk to end of green verge and stop at Breather pipe also made by Tonge and sons]
Stop 5 Grange and Brewery Cottages
Vernacular cottages built pre 1830 in the townland of Galloping Green South on the Bray Road at the bottom of Brewery Road and further up on close to the Leopardstown Inn. In 1901 the cottages were provided with a water fountain by Rathdown Council. In 1950 a CPO was issued on a portion of the front gardens and sanitary accommodation by Dublin County Council to allow for the widening of the Bray Road. Each of the Grange Cottages lost approximately 2 roods, and also 2 passageways which were used in common by the three occupiers.
Patrick J Licken born in 1903 at Brewery Cottage, a house by a stream (since culverted) to William Licken, a water inspector and Mary Gethings. He married Elizabeth Ellen (Lily) Gilchrist, daughter of James Gilchrist in 1923 at the Registrar office in Mitchelstown. Patrick was a private in the Army Air Service and based in Fermoy Aerodrome. ‘A boot and shoemaker, he was a traditional artist in leather. Across the road from his shop was Tigh Lorcain Hall, the home of the Robert Morrow, dairyman and farmer. His neighbours were Byrne's Dairy and Cullen Pub in the dip of the road. Glynns were in the Post Office and up a bit of the way Sargison's had a general grocery. There was a horse trough up by The Grove and a pump nearby, which was moved from one side of the road to t ‘other'.
Paddy died in 1986 late of 34 Beaufield Park and was buried at Deansgrange. Elizabeth died a few years later at 30 St Laurence's Park and was buried with her husband.
The Carroll and Murray families lived at Grange Cottages for over 120 years. The Murrays ran the forge and some of the Carrolls were employed at the reservoir.
Photograph courtesy of Mike Lee © Mike Lee
Stop 6 The Grange and The Brewery
The Grange Farm 9A 3R 2P, held on a 21 year lease from the bishop of Kildare. A two storey, L-shaped seven bay house was built circa 1830 in the townland of Galloping Green South. When it was put on the market in 1953 it was described as a period house on 12 acres comprising of 2 large reception rooms, very large Adams-style music room ideal for a ballroom with 6 bedrooms, 2 dressing rooms, several staff rooms, 2 bathrooms with extensive out-offices, pleasure grounds, vegetable garden, orchards and 9 acres of pasture. The house was bequeathed to Frances Guinness the niece of Henry Darley in 1856 and various relations lived/shared accommodation there for the next 50 years. In 1857 it was described as being of modern construction with 3 sitting rooms, 11 bedrooms and 3 water closets. It had a walled garden, numerous out buildings on 65 acres. A fire broke out in the house 1930 but was contained by the fire brigade and only a hayshed was destroyed. The remains of a number of the demesne walls are located within the grounds of the new Grange Development. A written and photographic record of the old walls being demolished in the building process was a condition of the planning permission but to date have not been located.
This was home to brewer and builder Henry Darley who lived here from 1826. Henry Darley born 1770 was baptised at St Peter's, Dublin. We presume Henry married but no evidence of his wife has been found. He lived at The Grange in Stillorgan and retired from the brewery in 1837. He moved to Prospect in Roebuck for 2 years in 1839. Although he had three sons, none of these had any sons to carry on this branch of the Darley family. One of his sons also called Henry was assistant master at the Lying in Hospital. Henry was church warden of Stillorgan Parish Church in 1828 and again in 1833. He bought property at Crobane, Killarney in 1851 through the encumbered courts. Henry died in 1856 at The Grange and was buried at Stillorgan.
Another important resident was Edward Lee. Edward Lee was born circa 1853 at Tyrrellspass and married Annie Sheckleton of 1 Belgrave Square, daughter of George Sheckleton, a farmer and his wife Mary Anne Carry from Dungar County Offaly in 1878 at the Methodist Church in Monkstown. Edward worked as a draper at Penrose Bowles and Co in Kingstown and opened his first shop at Bray in 1885 and over the next few years he opened shops at Kingstown, Dublin, and Rathmines. The chain became a private limited company in 1904 and he was appointed a JP by Viscount Powerscourt. He had a high sense of justice and was the originator of the weekly half day holiday in the drapery business in 1889 and also introduced a profit sharing system into the business. He was a governor of Donnybrook Hospital and a member of the Dublin Chamber of Commerce. The Lee family lived at The Grange from 1903 and in 1912 they moved to Bellevue in Booterstown. They lost two of their sons to WW1; Joseph killed at Gallipoli in 1915 and Robert, drowned on the RMS Leinster just a month before the end of the war. Edward died at Bellevue in 1927 and Annie died in 1938 at Temple Gardens, Rathmines. Both were buried at Deansgrange.
Enoch Medcalf worked as a gardener and as a railway porter in Mountmellick where they lived at Quality row. He subsequently worked as a coachman and gardener at Galloping green. They were living on the Dublin Road, Stillorgan in 1911 but had moved to 5 Kilmacud Road by 1921. Enoch was cycling on his way back to The Grange, where he worked as a gardener for Dean Lewis Crosby when he was hit by a car at the crossroads in Stillorgan and suffered a fractured skull. Enoch died 5 Dec 1939 at St Michael’s Hospital, Dun Laoghaire, late of 5 Kilmacud Road and was buried at Deansgrange.
Photograph courtesy of 3rd Dublin Stillorgan, Scout Group
This junction marks the spot of the old brewery. An idea spot as the Glaslower stream flowed through here. Most of the stream has now been culverted but then it powered a mill wheel. Henry was a brewer with premises at 3 Johnsons Court before buying the Brewery at Stillorgan prior to 1802 (probably purchased from Mr Metcalf who was the owner from 1775). He rebuilt and extended the brewery in 1805. From 1820 to 1831 he was in partnership with Robert Guinness and traded as Darley & Guinness. Henry leased the Brewery to Richard Guinness Hill in 1852 and left most of his estate to his niece Francis Guinness when he died in 1856.
Richard Guinness Hill born circa 1829 attended Belmont School (now Belmont Nursing Home) in 1835/6. He was in Australia in 1841 and married Amy Georgina Burdett in 1852 at the British Legation in Brussels. Amy was the youngest daughter of the late William Jones Burdette and Sarah Holmes Hodgkinson of Stowey House, Somersetshire, and Twickenham, Middlesex and the great niece of Sir Francis Burdett and niece of Miss Burdett Coutts. They moved from Brussels to live in Dublin at St Stephen’s Green. Richard carried on the business of Maltster at Henry Darley old premises at Stillorgan. Richard was appointed a corn broker in 1858. Amy became pregnant for the first time in 1858 but told none of her friends. The couple left for London on 1859 and travelled by train. At Rugby, Amy went into labour and was taken from the train to a small inn called the Globe at 42 Railway Terrace and the baby was born later that night. Richard was accused with falsifying the birth of his child, telling his wife that their child was dead, and giving the child to a nurse/beggar in London, so that he could take charge of his wife's inheritance of 14 thousand per year, (if there were no children of the marriage then he got the lot by way of the marriage settlement). He was arrested, charged and imprisoned in 1861. His brother George offered to become surety for bail to the extent of £1K and he was released. The court case was dismissed. Amy died at Kensington in 1870. Richard was sued by his aunt Frances Guinness of The Grange in 1862 for non payment of a loan. He was living in Brussels in 1864 and died late of 16 Synge Street in 1871 at Portarlington, Queens County and left £1500 in personal estate.
George Robert Goodfellow was a builder and owned the Brewery from 1909 to 1922. His daughter Hannah (Kathleen) Goodfellow an only child born in 1891 at 4 Morehampton Road was baptised at St Mark’s. She was educated at Alexandra College and graduated with a degree in Astronomy from Trinity College, Dublin. She was independently wealthy having inherited her mother’s wealth and she also owned a row of houses in Donnybrook, and houses in Bray which her father had built. She was a poet and writer who published under the pseudonym Michael Scot. She was a prominent member of Cumann na mBan having joined with her friend and artist Estella Solomons. She was an activist during the Easter Rising. Her portrait by Solomons was exhibited at the Royal Hibernian Academy in 1920. When her friend Estella married James Sullivan Starkey (aka Seamus O’Sullivan) she helped both financially and with content to his publication The Dublin Magazine. She was a generous woman and supported a number of charities and was also on the Board of Governors of the Royal Hospital in Donnybrook. Before her death she donated a piece of ground at Donnybrook to An Taisce. This site is known as the Morehampton Road Wildlife Sanctuary. Kathleen never married and was buried with her parents in Mount Jerome.
[Return to bus stop and cross the road at the pedestrian lights and stop by the entrance to Dunstaffanage Hall]
Behind the gates is a Georgian two storey, three bay house with bay windows. This was home to Remmy Sheehan from 1833 to 1837 who became famous for hitting Daniel O’Connell with his umbrella at Morrisson’s Hotel on Dawson Street.
The next occupant was George Thomas Columb who was Commandant of the Royal Hibernian School. He was also an accomplished landscape painter and exhibited in the Royal Hibernian Academy.
It was also home to Richard Seymore Guinness for a number of years, Richard was a partner in his father’s firm - Guinness Mahon and left nearly ½ million in personal estate when he died in 1915.
The dispensary is the second building on your left.
Hill Crest
The Tweedy family of Nimble Fingers fame lived at Hillcrest. Hilda Tweedy was a founder member of The Irish Housewives Association (IHA) formed in 1942 and her husband Robert involved in the Laundry business donated his collection of laundry machinery to the Ulster Folk Museum.
The Dispensary courtesy of Priory Studios
Stop 7 The Dispensary
Medical dispensaries were established by government legislation in 1805 under an Act of Parliament, where they were defined as “an institution where medicine and advice are given gratis to the poor”. The dispensary system remained largely intact until the 1960s, when the present medical card and choice of doctor scheme were introduced.
The original dispensary was in use from 1828 with Dr H C Field MD as the medical officer. Ellen Cooper, a niece of Charles Sargison was caretaker/cleaner from 1905 to 1909. In 1904 the dispensary had no accommodation and was noted to be scarcely more than a shed. By 1907 there were proposals to build a new dispensary and a caretaker’s residence. The new site was south of the old dispensary. The architect was George Tighe Moore, civil engineer. He was architect and engineer to Rathdown Union Board of Guardians. He was the architect in charge of major works at the Portrane and Richmond lunatic asylums in 1908 and went on to build a housing scheme on the Coolgreaney Road at Arklow, Co Wicklow in 1910.
The Rathdown Guardians originally applied for a loan of £700 from the Local Government Board to build the new dispensary but tenders came in between £800 and £1400.
The building was thought to be too fancy with a hall, waiting room, registrars-room (for the registering of births, deaths and marriages), a surgery and kitchen downstairs but what really caused the outcry was that the building was to have four bedrooms and a bathroom upstairs which was thought to be too extravagant for a caretaker. Miss Cooper lost her job when the new dispensary was built, Mr O'Farrell, a sub sanitary and school inspector was given the job. Ellen requested payment in lieu of notice but this was denied. Denis Boland, son of the local publican was medical officer here from 1919 to 1921.
Charles Sargison born 1874 at Charlesfort, Kinsale married Jane Anne Deacon in 1897 at New Ross. Charles was living in Stillorgan by 1894 and by 1896 was sexton of Stillorgan Church having assisted his uncle, John Cooke, the previous sexton, for two years. He was caretaker of The Dispensary in 1896 but by 1901 he was given notice to quit the house there but refued. He was on a salary of £4 pa as caretaker and was looking for an increase. Charles was assistant Registrar of Stillorgan and his signature appears on the birth, marriages and death records for the parish from 1901 to 1907. He had a very distinctive legible hand and his work was very accurate. He had a shop at Grove View in Stillorgan by 1910, this was located at the bottom of what is now known as The Hill but it was his wife Jane who ran the shop. Charles died in 1937 at Sallymount Gardens in Ranelagh and was buried at Mount Jerome. After his death, land he owned at Kinnagh, Ballycullane, Co Wexford was put up for sale by his wife and his son James Joseph purchased the 28 acre farm. Jane died in 1966 and she was buried with her husband.
Charles Francis M Judd, eldest son of Michael Judd and Mary O’Donohue was born 8 Feb 1888 at Hardwick Street. He attended Blackrock College and then Trinity. He took medical exams in 1910 and part two in 1913, he then took a diploma in Public Health Medicine. He got a job as locum medical officer of Stillorgan in 1915 and stayed on in the role until 1919 when he resigned quoting ill health. It was usually a prerequisite that the medical officer had to live in the district but apparently Dr Judd could not find a suitable house, instead he lived in Murphystown House for a while before moving to Coin du Chemin in Foxrock. He was medical officer of Stillorgan when the Spanish flu took hold and his health was compromised, although in 1920 he took on the role of coroner for South Dublin. He died on his way home from Italy on 22 May 1922 where he had been seeking a cure. 1915 was a sad as well as a most extraordinary year for him. He got a permanent position in May that year, his sister Haidee died that same month followed two days later by the death Montgomery Pim at The Front (his sister Ivy's fiancée). In August 1915 he took a three week holiday. This was approved by the Rathdown Board of Guardians with a locum provided for him, (as in paid holidays). The board did not seem to be aware that this vacation was a 'busman's holiday' as he took on the job of ship's doctor aboard the White Star liner Arabic. His brother Raymond and sister Ivy were also onboard. The ship was torpedoed by a submarine and his double jobbing discovered as he proved quite the hero, helping to rescue 21 people with a damaged hand. The Rathdown Guardians expressed their surprise at him taking on a second job but wanted it noted that they were pleased he had survived. Over 400 people were on the Arabic which was travelling from Liverpool to New York. Most of the passengers were on deck having just finished breakfast and spotted the cargo steamer Dunsley in the distance being struck by a torpedo. On seeing a torpedo coming towards them they rushed to the other side of the boat, this plus the fact that each passenger had been given instruction on the use of a life belt is thought to have been why so many survived. She sank within 10 minutes, killing 44 passengers and crew, 3 of whom were American. Two war boats and the limping Dunsley picked up passengers and crew from the life rafts and brought them to Queenstown.
[Just past the dispensary is a small estate called Cedarmount which was built in the garden of Holmfels.
Stop 8 Holmfels
Bungalow built for Grace Jackson circa 1937 with a sun loggia on 1.5 acres.
Thomas Jackson eldest son, was a member of the firm Sandilands and Co, Solicitors of Fenchurch Avenue, Fenchurch-street. He was churchwarden of Springfield Church and parish. He married Grace Mary (Tooey) Orpen only surviving daughter of Arthur Herbert Orpen and sister of Sir William Orpen at Stillorgan Parish Church in 1897. Grace was the granddaughter of the Right Rev Dr Caulfeild, Bishop of Nassau and Thomas was the grandson of the Archbishop of Cape Town. Grace was. The church was decorated by local ladies with an arches of clematis, lilies, moss and gorse, the rest of the church was filled with primroses. Grace was a member of the choir and the service was fully choral. Grace wore an ivory white satin dress and her six bridesmaids were dressed in daffodil yellow and each had been presented with a gold bangle engraved with her Grace’s new initials. Her veil was fastened by a diamond star, a gift from the groom. They honeymooned in the Channel Islands and resided at 40 Clanricarde Gardens, Notting Hill Gate in London after their marriage. They moved to Holmfels at Reigate and in 1903 Thomas put the house up for sale. They moved to the Jackson family home at Chelmsford before moving to Farmleigh in Stillorgan circa 1915. Thomas died at Farmleigh in 1936 and left 28K in personal estate. Grace built a new modern house for herself and called it Holmfels. Grace died 19 Nov 1944 at Holmfels, Stillorgan. Both were buried at St Brigid’s Graveyard, Stillorgan.
Henry Francis Tivy born 19 Nov 1878 at Janeville, Montenotte, Cork started work at the Cork Constitution in 1897. He married Ellen (Neillia) Honiball Coade on 12 Feb 1907 at St Michael C of I Church in Blackrock, Cork. Ellen was the daughter of James Coade, a revenue official, and Francis Elizabeth Honiball. He was a trustee of the Cork Savings Bank, Skiddy's Charity, and St Stephen's Hospital. In 1915 his father purchased the Dublin Evening Mail Newspaper and its allied publications which included the Dublin Daily Express. He was a member of the Masonic Order and from 1929 he was controlling proprietor of the Evening Mail publications. Ellen died at Holmfels, Stillorgan in 1950. Henry died in 1960 at 14 Rosmeen gardens, Sandycove and left 121K in personal estate. He was a member of the British Numismatic Society and his coin collection was left to the National Museum of Ireland.
Daniel (Dan) Morrissey born 1895 in Silver Street, Nenagh was educated at Nenagh CBS and was working as a labourer in 1911. He married Mary Horan in 1920. Mary was a housemaid and the daughter of Martin Horan, and they had two sons and five daughters. By 1922 they were living at Summerhill, Nenagh and Dan was working as an insurance agent and was involved in the Trade Union movement. He was later an auctioneer and estate agents trading as Daniel Morrissey & Son and was elected president of the Irish Auctioneering Association in 1952. He went forward as a labour candidate in 1922 and was elected to the Dail and he served as a TD from 1922 to 1951. In 1933 he was asked and joined the Cumann na nGaedheal party. He served as Minister for Industry and Commerce from 1948 to 1951 and Minister for Justice for three months from March 1951 under Fine Gael. He established Córas Tráchtála to promote Irish exports. His most lasting legacy was the founding of the Industrial Development Authority (IDA) in 1949. He retired from politics in 1957 and went back to his auctioneering company. They specialised in selling licensed premises and also acted for a number of receivers and liquidators. They also established a vehicle and motor Commercial mart at Collinstown. They lived at The Rise in Mount Merrion before moving to Maretimo Gardens. He was the sole letting agent for Liberty Hall in 1965. Mary died in 1967 and was buried at Deansgrange. Daniel lived at Holmfels from 1971 and retired from business in 1978. He died at his residence, ‘Holmfels’ in 1981 and was buried with his wife. Lisney's acquired Morrissey's in 2018 and Daniel’s grandson joined the board of Lisneys.
Stop on the corner of Merville Road and The Rectory will be visible, also this is the road which was built over one of the Holy wells known as Darley’s Well was situated.
Stop 9 The Rectory
The original rectory was on Newtownpark Avenue on Glebe land in the townland of Stillorgan Glebe on 28 acres, the land was held by Lady Allen and leased to Peter Warren in 1758. The Glebe House was erected during the incumbency of the Rev Beather King and is possibly the house marked as Elysium beside the Widow's Asylum on Duncan's Map of 1821. It was sold by the Diocesan Council in 1886 and the name was changed to St Itas circa 1887.
Land was leased by the Representative Church Body for 995 years from Colonel Kenney of Woodview for a new rectory to be built in the townland of South Stillorgan. Building work commenced in 1881 and the building was fully paid for by 1890. The Architect was James Franklin Fuller, famous for designing Kylemore Abbey and redesigning Ashford Castle. The builders were Collen Bros of 5 Clanwilliam Place. Fuller also designed a new pulpit for the church in 1880, which was executed in oak by Henry Sharpe of Kells at a cost of £50. In 1884 gates and railings to surround the lawn were added at a cost of £20.
James Kelly born circa 1809 London was the son of Irish man Robert Kelly. He entered Trinity, BA in 1828 and MA in 1841. He was ordained in 1832 and became curate of Donaghmore in Co Derry. He arrived as the incumbent of Stillorgan Parish Church in 1839, from Sandgate in Kent. Shortly after his arrival he was in conflict with the National Board of Education whom he had heard were planning to build a national school in Stillorgan and he was at pains to find out who had made such an application for his parish. They refused to entertain him, so he went public, publishing the letters between himself and the Board in the newspaper which included his caustic comments. Shortly after that, he clashed with the archbishop for not living in the Glebe House. It transpired that he had taken alternative accommodation and rented The Glebe House to a Samuel Hitchens and the Archbishop was none too happy and wrote saying that if he did not live in The Glebe, then he had no licence to preach. This does not seem to have been resolved as a letter was then sent to the churchwardens warning them not to allow an unlicensed preacher to preach in Stillorgan Church. Given that the churchwardens were an ex-Attorney General, Mark Saurin and the eminent businessman - Matthew Pollock, the Archbishop must have been quite determined to have gone to this length. Rev Kelly published a number of works including ‘The apocalypse interpreted in the light of the Day of our Lord’ & ‘Apocalyptic Interpretation’. He also published his lectures on anti-popery. When a Dublin protestant hall was mooted to be erected in 1841, he became one of the trustees.
He married Frances Minchin, daughter of Henry Minchin from Holywell in Hampshire at Stillorgan Parish Church in 1841. Frances’s sister Georgina Minchin had married her cousin William Minchin and were living at a house called Eversham which is at the corner of Stillorgan Road (N11) and Newtownpark Avenue. When they married, Frances brought with her, a dowry of five thousand pounds. He resigned in 1845 and was incumbent of Kiliskey parish from 1845 to 1848. He was minister of St Peter’s Chapel Westminster from 1848 to 1869 and perpetual curate of St George’s Liverpool from 1863 to 1869.
The couple were separated in 1869 after a spectacular divorce case in which his wife Frances, sought a judicial separation and alimony based on mental cruelty. The Rev James was suspended from duty and defended himself as he considered himself to be quite expert having brought numerous libel cases against newspapers, who reported on his outcry when a Jew was elected Mayor of Liverpool and a Roman Catholic was appointed chaplain to the local Gaol. The judge, Lord Penzance granted a judicial separation and alimony having heard that James had squandered Mrs Minchin’s dowry plus another five thousand that had been bequeathed to her by her sister. He also took into account that James was responsible for the estrangement of the couple's son. Eccentric and refractory, the Rev James Kelly would spend the rest of his life involved in litigation of some type, thinking that every single person he met was against him. He died in 1892 at Hatterly Street, Liverpool, his son at his bedside. He may have married a second time as his obituary mentions a little daughter, but ‘little’ may only refer to her diminutive size. He was buried at Smithdown Road cemetery.
The house was home to many of Stillorgan incumbents but in 1929 it was rented to Lady McLaughlin, the widow of Sir Henry McLaughlin. Henry was born in 1876 was educated at the Royal Academy in Belfast and Mount Radford in Exeter. He married Ethel Mary Mollan, daughter of William Stuart Mollan and Louisa Margaret Calcutt on 25 Apr 1899 at the Registrar's Office on Fitzroy Avenue, Belfast. Henry was a member of the Plymouth Brethren. Henry became Chairman of Messrs McLaughlin and Harvey, building contractors and was president of the Building Employers Association, Dublin. They lived at Dartmouth Square before moving to Calpe in Blackrock. During WW1 Henry was the Hon. Director General of Recruitment in Ireland and of the Central Recruiting Committee from 1915 to 1916 and Director of the Red Cross Day fund. The Lord Lieutenant appointed him Director-General of Demobilisation and Re-employment of Sailors and Soldiers for Ireland in 1919. The same year he was appointed to the War Pensions Committee and received a Knighthood. Known for his organisation skills he was made director of the Dublin Hospitals fete in 1920, that same year he appealed for clemency for Kevin Barry. A football fan, he was President of the Irish Free State Football Association and an organiser of the Tailteann Games. He was chairman of the Irish Kennel Club and a breeder of Scottish Deerhounds. His own dogs were CH. Marquis of Cranna and CH. Countess of Cranna.
He had a commitment from Lord Kitchener that ex-service men would be looked after, plus Lloyd George had promised ‘Houses fit for Heroes’ on their return. In 1921 he arranged the purchase of 60 houses at Clontarf and he transferred land purchased at Killester which was being used for agricultural training to the Local Government Board to build 287 houses to be given to ex-service men. The scheme also employed about 120 ex-soldiers and sailors to build these houses. By the time the scheme was finished in 1923 political power had been transferred to the new Free State and these schemes were run by the Irish Soldiers and Sailors Trust. By 1925 he was sadly disillusioned as only 1 out of 72 heroes had received houses on their return.
They moved to Riversdale in Monkstown circa 1920. Henry died suddenly on his way to work on 21 Nov 1927 and his funeral was held in Belfast. He left 10K in personal estate. After his death Lady McLaughlin moved to The Rectory in Stillorgan. She was much in demand to open charity events and fetes and was a frequent visitor to St Helen’s, home of the Nutting family in Stillorgan. Their daughter married at St Brigid’s Church Stillorgan in 1931. The reception was held at The Rectory to which more than 100 guests were invited. Ethel died 19 Jun 1950 at The Chalet, Westminster Road, Foxrock and her funeral was to Belfast City Cemetery.
Cross Merville Road and pass St Brigid’s Parish Hall (note the blocked up doorway in the wall) and stop outside the large church gate beside the old school house. The gate piers into the parish centre originally held globe lanterns that had been converted to electricity. They globes were replaced in 1966 as they could not be repaired and the old lamps were sold to an American.
Photograph of St Brigid's Stillorgan courtesy of Olive Casey Conroy, 2024
Stop 10 The Church & Old School House
The original Celtic church fell into ruins after the dissolving of the monasteries and was in a ruinous state for nearly 200 years. In 1706 Archbishop King was instrumental in bringing about the building of a new church on the site with the help of Viscount Allen. The new church was finished in 1712, but it took nearly 50 years for a clergyman to be appointed and by then the church had fallen into disrepair again. During this time the churchyard was still in use for burials. The earliest note of a burial in the register is 1691 and the earliest memorial is also from that year, although earlier burials of the Wolverston and Wingfield families within the church ruins are well documented. In 1760 the church was restored by the generosity of Lord Chancellor Jocelyn; this was the same year that the parishes of Stillorgan and Kilmacud were separated from Monkstown and Rev Beather King was appointed incumbent. In 1812 The tower and northern aisle was added and this is the church we see today. Over the last 200 years the church structure has changed little but the building has been well maintained. The internal accommodation has been modernised as needed including a major refurbishment in 1927 which was designed by Richard Orpen and paid for by Sir William Orpen in memory of their father. Town major Henry Charles Sirr who arrested Lord Edward Fitzgerald had his own pew here 1803/4.
Here we also have the old school house now in use as a residence and playschool. It is not clear when the school first opened, but in April 1787 an advert was placed in Saunder’s Newsletter that a parish clerk/school master was required at Stillorgan. By 1804, charity sermons were being held twice a year towards the upkeep of the school which had over 50 children of both sexes, and of all denominations who were being taught to read and write and given instruction in works of industry. By 1835 we can confirm that the school was situated here and educated up to 200 children. In 1927 the school was brought under the National School Scheme, re-named St Brigid’s National School and is still running, albeit on another site on the grounds, as a National School today.
Sarah Ruddell, third daughter of Thomas Ruddell and Sarah McKee born 1871 at Moira married Henry Walter Warry at Moira, Co Down in 1909. Henry was a commercial clerk in the drug trade living at Phibsboro. He was the son of Walter Warry, a printer and Jemima Priest from Taunton in Somerset who moved to Dublin in the late 1870s. Together with his brothers Sam and Charlie he founded the Clonliffe Harriers. Sarah qualified as a teacher from the Church of Ireland Training College in 1892 and was Principal of Moira Church of Ireland School in Bottier, Co Down in 1905, a position she had to vacate to live with her husband in Dublin. Sarah started working in Stillorgan School in 1912 and stayed for 23 years. They lived at School Buildings and their only child Gladys Sarah Jemima Warry born 1910 died from measles aged four at the Deramore Arms Hotel, Moira.
When the school came under the National School System in 1927, Sarah was earning £56 per annum. Every year she would send postcards from her holiday in Co Down to each of her pupils. By all accounts Sarah was a wonderful teacher and one parish document records that, 'she has justified in every respect the high recommendation with which she came to us.' Henry died at the Adelaide Hospital in 1930 late of School Buildings, Stillorgan. J C Nichols was in charge of the funeral arrangements and Henry was buried at Old Drumcondra Church Yard. Sarah retired in 1935 and was given a purse with 30 sovereigns and an illuminated address as a retirement gift. Sarah died at School Buildings in 1936.
The adjoining graveyard contains many thousands of burials but few have headstones. The churchyard predates the disestablishment of the Church of Ireland in 1869 and was open for burial to all those who lived within the boundaries of the parish, whatever their denomination. The graveyard was mapped and the memorials from nearly 500 headstones were recorded in 2013, a transcription and a map are available at https://www.stbrigids300.com/
Take the second left and walk past the dilapidated swimming pool and towards Kilmacud Crokes clubhouse.
Stop 11 Glenalbyn
A three bay late Georgian three bay, two storey over part basement house built circa 1802 with original doorcase and fanlight and an unsympathetic 20th century porch. The rear of the house has a bow return with a conical roof. There were two gate lodges, one on the Lower Kilmacud Road and the other on Glenalbyn Road. The garden was enclosed by a 12’ wall and it had a coach house and stabling for 8 horses, these buildings are now demolished but the giant sequoia trees and parts of the old garden walls have survived.
It was called Janeville originally, possibly named for the wife of George Tinkler, a paper manufacturer whose business was at 42 South Great George's Street in Dublin City. He appears to be the builder and the first occupant of the house. It was for sale or let on 13 acres along with several houses in the village from 1805 to 1807. The Kilmacud stream ran through the grounds which was known locally in the last century as Daly's River. The house was reached by traversing an elaborate arched bridge with the name plaque 'Janeville'. The house sat on 19 acres in 1857. The name of the house had changed to Glen Albyn by 1885 and was known as Glenalbyn by 1903. The house and grounds are now home to Kilmacud Crokes and have been much extended.
James Wilkinson born circa 1836 at Meath went into partnership with his brother Richard in 1867 and they traded from 50-51 Smithfield as R and J Wilkinson, Master Salesmen, Seed Merchants and Corn & Hay Factors. They also provided a cattle park/lairage opposite the market. In 1883 they moved to 40-41 Prussia Street when sales of cattle were restricted to the Dublin cattle market due to foot and mouth disease. By 1895 R & J Wilkinson, along with Ganleys and Gavin Low, were selling outside the market due to the lack of an auction ring for store cattle. He married Anne Wilton Gibson in 1870 at Stonehall Parish Church, Westmeath. In 1901 they were living at Glenart, Grove Avenue Stillorgan and his unmarried sister Hannah Maria lived with them. By 1904 they were living at Glenn Albyn. John died at the Crichton Royal Institute, Scotland in 1906 late of Glen Albyn and left 11K in personal estate. After John's death Anne moved with her sister in law Hannah to 3 Cowper Villas. Anne died in 1943 aged 96 at Cowper Road. Their eldest child John Samuel Wilkinson was born 1871. He married Evelyn Doris Warner eldest daughter of William Cyrus Warner a civil servant in 1911 at Christ Church, Rathgar, County Dublin. John was an auctioneer and a livestock dealer with premises at 40/41 Prussia Street. They lived at Glenalbyn where their five children were born. The were members of the Stillorgan and Foxrock Horticultural society. John died in 1946 at Glenalbyn aged 75 years and Evelyn died in 1973 aged 89 years. The Park Shopping Centre built on the Prussia Street site is still run by the Wilkinson family.
The Village café within the Kilmacud Crokes complex may be open.
Hope you enjoyed your time with us today and that you will join us on our next short walk around the area.
The Youwho team
© June Bow & Karen Poff - December 2025
[Stand on pavement outside the Stillorgan Plaza. Note the churchlike windows on the wall of the pub, these were once porthole type windows where the boys on their motorcycles used to gather in the 1960s.]
Today we start our walk at Boland’s Pub. It is situated at the cross roads in Stillorgan but back in the day it was on the south corner of the Bray Road and the Kilmacud Road, as the road down to Stillorgan Park crossing the dual carriageway didn’t exist and was only opened in 1975.
This was called the Dublin Road and was the main road from Dublin to Bray. This was also the main coach road from Dublin to Wexford when a regular service started in 1785. It became known as the Leopardstown highway after the racecourse opened in 1888.
Stop 1 Boland’s Public House built in the townland of Stillorgan South is a two storey building with many additions and alterations. It was for sale in 1925 described as being ‘on the corner of the Kilmacud Road and the Road to Bray. It had ‘eight apartments, an attractive façade with a gated entrance from the Kilmacud Road and a storage and bottling facility’. When James Boland took over in 1898, he renamed it 'The Stillorgan House' but being a well know publican, it was just referred to as Bolands. It has had numerous owners since the 1960s and has been variously called Cassidys and McGowans but in recent years it has reverted back to having 'Bolands' over the door. The original name of the pub was Grove View House.
The first family that we have found running it as a licensed premises were the Moran family who were there from at least 1867 until 1893 when the licence was transferred to Miss Mary Anne Rydall, who was a cousin. She remained there as the licensee and manager until 1898 when the public house was purchased from the Morans by James Joseph Boland. In the 1970s the men’s convenience was still outdoors and had no roof; numerous people complained of the unpleasant view from upstairs on passing buses. In 1988 it was found to be the most expensive pub in Ireland for a pint of Guinness or Harp. In 2017 it was for sale quoting 1.4 million. Over the years it has been painted various colours including royal blue, pink, mustard and burgundy. In 2021 the pub was painted totally black, that has now been refreshed and it is painted white highlighted with black. In 2022 it was for sale with a guide price of 1.5 million.
[Walk to the crossroads, turn right at the corner and follow the road down the hill.]
Just imagine an 8’ to 12’ unbroken wall on your left-hand side and you begin to understand the expression ‘all on the one side like Stillorgan’. The old road to Blackrock was at the bottom of the hill and was initially just a lane. Today there are a number of thriving business’ which occupy the single and two storey stepped down houses thought to have been built by the Medcalf family for use by Henry Darley’s brewery workers, they were later owned by the Cullen family. As well as being homes, these cottages held business; tailors and dressmakers like the Woodcock and Gill families, stonecutters including the Broe family as well as antique, sweet and electrical shops. The Hill was home to builders, painters, glaziers, grocers and bakers over the years. Some of the surnames associated with these business’ like Pender, McCann and Thornton are still found locally today.
Laying telephone cable to the Post Office in 1949 - photographs courtesy of Jeanne McHale
[Stand at pavement outside carpark of The Orchard]
For families who lived on the hill see www.youwho.ie/1911.html & https://www.youwho.ie/village.html
The building site opposite was once the post office and the OK Garage (later Esmond’s Motors). The post office was established here circa 1830 which predates the postage stamp. In 1834 Mrs Ann Carthy was post mistress. Healy, Jolly, Smith, Glynn, Kelly and Kennedy are the family names associated with the post office.
The site also included restaurants such as Shannon’s, Pings and Pappagallo but the main attraction was the Swiss Chalet which attracted families in their droves. In 1982 the building became Blakes, one of the most popular eateries in South Dublin for John O'Sullivan of Gallagher’s steak restaurant. Prawn and salmon terrine, garlic mussels, chicken princess, not forgetting the humble burger and steaks were the order of the day and to top it off there was the Knickerbocker glory and the Banana boat. The business struggled in later years and was liquidated in 2002.
Stop 2 Cullen’s Public House aka The Stillorgan Orchard built in the townland of Stillorgan was run by Michael Cullen in 1834 and when he died in 1876 the license was taken over by his widow and hence was known colloquially as ‘The Widow Cullens. It was for sale in 1894 by Christopher Cullen, as a two storey house with kitchen and 5 bedrooms. It had two shops, a grocery and a bar with a dining room and drawing room. It had stabling for 2 horses, a cow house and store room. It had two yards and both yards had an entrance gate. It was a bona fide house and in 1894 was 'upwards of 60 years in the hands of the Cullen family'. James Cullen was the next owner and when his wife Theresa was widowed in 1919, she carried on running the public house until 1962 and again it became known locally as 'The Widow Cullens'. Frank Hanley owned the public house from 1962 to 1974 and it is remembered fondly as The Stillorgan Inn. It was thatched in 1986 and Licken's boot shop was incorporated into the building around this time under the ownership of David and Brian Lavin. It was rebranded as The Stillorgan Orchard and Lavin’s Thatched Restaurant. It was purchased by the well known publican family the O’Dwyers for 2 million in 1994 and they remained in ownership until 2018 when it was sold to The Strand Gastro Pubs.
[Continue down the road and take a right on to what is now called Glenalbyn Road. Note that the pavement is quite narrow on both sides of road in places and has overhanging trees.]
This is still referred to by locals as the Old Dublin Road. Opposite the entrance to Linden Lea you will see a sewer vent pipe supplied by Tonge and Taggart dated 1911. The firm of Tonge and Taggart were established in Bishop's Street in 1869, moved to Windmill Lane circa 1906 and are responsible for a great deal of ironwork about Dublin city.
Next on the left is a bungalow called Moyvalley, this was home to Thekla Beere the first woman to head an Irish government department. Her salary of over 2K pa in comparison with a bookkeeper/typist at 500 PA. She died in 1991 and is buried in Stillorgan graveyard.
The large white house next door called Willow Garth was built circa 1902 for the Orr family related to the Thwaites family and who founded the Mineral Waters Company. Willow Garth was previously called Amana and Coolgarrif. It backed on to what was once the Stillorgan Golf Links. The O’Kelly family lived here. Their son Fergus was part of a small group which set up a wireless transmitter that broadcast a message announcing the Irish Republic in 1916 from Reis’s Chambers on the corner of O’Connell Street and Lower Abbey Street. After the rising he was imprisoned in Richmond Barracks, Stafford Prison, England and finally Frongoch Internment Camp in Wales. This was also home to John McManus, an artist and photo engraver. His daughter Una married Dick Kennedy, the owner of the OK Garage in Stillorgan and they lived here until the 1970s. Richard Noel (Dick) Kennedy in 1903 at Clonliffe Road married Agnes Carmel (Una) McManus, the daughter of John McManus and Agnes Mulvey of Coolgariff at Blackrock Church in 1935. Their first child was born at Greenfield Road, Mount Merrion and they then moved to Coolgarrif, Una’s family home. From 1942 the OK Service station repaired cars, sold second hand cars and employed local lads as petrol pump attendants. Dick was involved in the South Great George's Street Santa Charity run by the Traders Association in the late 50s and early 60s. This was a scheme where people donated faulty/broken toys, which were then repaired and given to children who might not expect a visit from Santa. The Post Office also were involved in this scheme and in one year over 70,000 toys were distributed. Dick collected the toys during the year brought them for repair, collected them and stored them at the garage until Christmas. He also provided the charity with his caravan for use as a Santa’s Grotto. In 1956 the people of Hungary revolted against the Communist government and its Soviet-imposed policies. This led to widespread hunger and the Irish Red Cross were one of the bodies that gave aid. The OK Service garage became a depot for donations of tinned goods, blankets and medical supplies. Opposite is what is now called Woodview Mews (previously Woodbine cottage and prior that the gardeners cottage on the grounds of Woodview).
[Stand at (ingress) after Churchview apartments previously Glenalbyn Motors owned by the McGuirk family.
(You are now on St Brigid’s Church Road.]
Across the road is Woodview, an imposing house painted vintage primrose. The picket gate just a chink in its surrounding high wall which would have been typical of the walls around Stillorgan.
Terrace Walk from the Burrage Collection 1808
Stop 3 Woodview built circa 1770 in the townland of Stillorgan is one of the oldest houses in the area and is visible in a local sketch of the area dated 1806. Peter Warren and his wife lived here in 1770 but how they were related to the next occupant; Alderman Nathaniel Warren, a brewer and Dublin businessman is still a conundrum. Lady Pamela Campbell lived here for a few years, she was the daughter of Lord Edward Fitzgerald, Irish aristocrat and united Irishman who was fatally wounded in the course of his arrest in 1798. Two of her daughters were married from the church next door.
The Huguenot Boileau family who were the founders of Boileau and Boyd, (a pharmaceutical firm which was only dissolved in 2016) lived here from 1833 to 1855.
The house also seems to have been used as an address for non resident couples so that marriages could take place in the church next door in the mid 1800s. This was never the Glebe house for Stillorgan Church but many of its incumbents lived here for convenience as the glebe house was on Newtown Park Avenue. It was for sale in 1843 and one of the selling points was a private entrance from the garden to the church. Parts of this land became church grounds in 1874. In 1974 part of the grounds was hived off to build an apartment block called Woodview Court.
Samuel Waters lived here for about 30 years. He was the son of Abraham Waters and Sarah Hardman nee Walker, and grandson of William Waters of Co Wicklow, both his grandfather and father were with the Irish Constabulary. Samuel Abraham Walker Waters was born in Dublin Street in Dublin, whilst his father was stationed at the Phoenix Park. When he was a baby, the family moved to Ferbane in Kings County and then to Carrick on Shannon. He was sent to school in Edinburgh and stayed with his uncle Sam Waters and afterwards worked in London for Messrs Drelenvaux & Bremmer, a German shipping broker in Mark Lane. When he was nearly 18, he moved back to Ireland to take exams in the hope of joining the constabulary. He married Margaret Helen McNab, daughter of James McNab at Castle Connell in 1872. He was accepted into the RIC and his first post was to Grange in Co Sligo. He was a friend of Captain Charles Wynn, who was son in Law to Sir Robert Gore-Booth and attended séances in Lissadell. There is a suggestion that he ran up gambling debts and this prompted his being moved to Ballyvaughan in Co Clare in 1870 where he met his future wife. A keen cricketer, fisherman and golfer, he also shot and played tennis and croquet. He was transferred to Kerry where he took lodgings and the rest of the family moved temporarily to Idrone Terrace in Blackrock. He rented Chute Hall in Kerry and the family moved in together. It was during this that six of his daughters met their future husbands. His next transfer was back to Dublin, where they took a house in Clontarf. He received a medal for his protection duty of Queen Victoria on her visit of 1900. He retired on full pay after with over 40 years’ service in 1906 and moved to Woodview the same year. Samuel died in 1936 at Woodview and left nearly 3K in personal estate.
The White family were at Woodview from 1885 to 1908. Robert White died in 1904. Over the next four years, his son also Robert, was compelled to sell the family land in Queen’s County to the Estates Commissioners and although he was recompensed for the compulsory purchase, this did not sit well with him as he would have preferred to sell the land to his tenants who he’d know all his life. He became very depressed on losing the family estate and died by his own hand aged 41 years in 1908 at Woodview, Stillorgan and is buried at Deansgrange.
A more recent occupant was Alexander Buckley. He was born in 1893 the son of Francis Robert Buckley and Jane Francis (Jennie) Cooper. He grew up in Meadowlands, Dundrum, his father was a hall porter and clerk. He and his father both enlisted, his father with the Royal Navy was stationed at Pembroke II and Alick served with The Prince of Wales's Leinster Regiment (Royal Canadians) and later as a fighter pilot. He was flying over Salonica in 1918 at 6000 feet when one of the wings was shot off. He said his prayers, grappled with the controls and managed to land his plane suffering only minor injuries. He was founder, chairman and managing director of Messrs Buckley's Motors Ltd. Initially based in Abbey Street in 1924 they were the sole distributors for Hillman, Riley and Star cars. He married Gertrude Hurley in 1931 at St Mary's Church, Donnybrook. Gertrude was the daughter of William Hurley and Emily Alberta Brien and the granddaughter of Dublin hatter, William Hurley of Adelaide Road. They lived on Eglington Road before moving to Woodview in 1937. In 1935 he opened an assembly plant on Ringsend Road and was building Humber cars. In 1949 they moved to Santry and by 1965 they employed over 400 people at the Shanowen Road plant. Here they assembled the CKD (completely knocked down) kits for the Hillman range of cars and Commer commercial vehicles for the Rootes Group. In 1966 Buckley's became a wholly owned subsidiary of the Rootes Group which was controlled by the Chrysler Corporation. He was a director of Wallpapers Ltd and Newbridge Cutlery. He set up Evode Industries Limited with Dr Herman Simon in 1954 with Alex owning 51% of the Company. Dr Simon wished to create a company in Ireland to service the shoe Industry but because of the Irish Control of Manufacturers Act, it was not possible for another country to own more than 50% of an Irish company. The name 'Evode' was derived from the word Dove with the 'e' added. Dr Simon had been the leading figure in Dove Polishes, prior to his association with Evode Industries. In 1955 an agreement was signed with Evode Limited for the rights to use the name 'EVO-STIK' in Ireland. An astute businessman he was also sole agent for BAC (British Aircraft Corporation). It is said that when Aer Lingus wanted to buy a four BAC 1-11 jets in the 1960's, the purchase had to go through Alex Buckley as the sole agent. He was a member of the Royal Irish Yacht and raced in the Dragon Class. He won numerous regattas and the Duke of Edinburgh Cup in 1953 in his Yacht Ashaka and again in 1958 with Nirvana II. Gertrude died in 1963. Alick retired in 1967 and in 1974 he moved to St Anne's on Ailesbury Road. 50 years after setting up his business Crysler made him a presentation. In his acceptance speech, he humbly remarked that he always just got by ‘on a wing and a prayer’.
They were parishioners of St Brigid's and the following memorial can be found in the church. ‘To the glory of God/and in memory of Alick and Gertrude Buckley/Late of Woodview/Stillorgan. This organ was rebuilt in 1986’. Both are buried at St Brigid's graveyard.
This house has been home to many families before finding a new lease of life as flats in the 1970s. The house and grounds were also home to many members of staff including the Kinsella family who lived in an estate cottage for upwards of 40 years.
Brookvale courtesy of Priory Studios
[Stand at green verge near bus stop.]
Stop 4 Brookvale was built circa 1780 in the townland of Stillorgan South. It was previously called Brewery House. It’s an elegant three story non-basement house, with bay timber frame windows. It's actually two houses joined together, possibly the coach house or offices were integrated as some time. It has a side entrance from Station Road (now part of St Brigid's Church Road). In 1856 the name was changed to Winton but by 1870 it was known as Brookvale again. It was for sale in 1865 and in 1950 a CPO was issued on a portion of the front garden and by Dublin County Council to allow for the widening of the Bray Road. One of the first occupants was Andrew Carton who leased the brewery from Richard Guinness Hill. Sarah Law lived her in 1861 to 1865 she was the widow of Michael law a partner in Law & Finlay’s Bank.
In 1879 Anne Elizabeth Lamb an ex Mountmellick teacher opened a school here. Together with Annie Bolton, another ex Mountmellick teacher, they prepared girls for Trinity College examinations. In 1870 following a request from Alexandra College, Trinity College had established its ‘Examinations for Women’ to offer junior and senior level examinations for girls. They outgrew the building and moved to Rathgar in 1881.
The Misses Humphreys lived here for over 30 years from 1913. Each sister received a bequest of £600 on the death of their father in 1911 and moved to Brookvale from Castlefin in Co Donegal. Lily Humphreys served as a VAD’s during the war.
There are folk that live in Canada,
There are folk that live in Cork,
There are folk that live in Italy
And Yankees in New York;
There are folk that live in London,
They may keep their banner furled
For the people in Stillorgan
Are the folk that guide the world.
Part of a poem by Lily Humphreys published in 1938.
Brookvale was for sale in 1951 described as an attractive residence with old world charm.
Grange Cottages - Courtesy of Priory Studios
[Walk to end of green verge and stop at Breather pipe also made by Tonge and sons]
Stop 5 Grange and Brewery Cottages
Vernacular cottages built pre 1830 in the townland of Galloping Green South on the Bray Road at the bottom of Brewery Road and further up on close to the Leopardstown Inn. In 1901 the cottages were provided with a water fountain by Rathdown Council. In 1950 a CPO was issued on a portion of the front gardens and sanitary accommodation by Dublin County Council to allow for the widening of the Bray Road. Each of the Grange Cottages lost approximately 2 roods, and also 2 passageways which were used in common by the three occupiers.
Patrick J Licken born in 1903 at Brewery Cottage, a house by a stream (since culverted) to William Licken, a water inspector and Mary Gethings. He married Elizabeth Ellen (Lily) Gilchrist, daughter of James Gilchrist in 1923 at the Registrar office in Mitchelstown. Patrick was a private in the Army Air Service and based in Fermoy Aerodrome. ‘A boot and shoemaker, he was a traditional artist in leather. Across the road from his shop was Tigh Lorcain Hall, the home of the Robert Morrow, dairyman and farmer. His neighbours were Byrne's Dairy and Cullen Pub in the dip of the road. Glynns were in the Post Office and up a bit of the way Sargison's had a general grocery. There was a horse trough up by The Grove and a pump nearby, which was moved from one side of the road to t ‘other'.
Paddy died in 1986 late of 34 Beaufield Park and was buried at Deansgrange. Elizabeth died a few years later at 30 St Laurence's Park and was buried with her husband.
The Carroll and Murray families lived at Grange Cottages for over 120 years. The Murrays ran the forge and some of the Carrolls were employed at the reservoir.
Photograph courtesy of Mike Lee © Mike Lee
Stop 6 The Grange and The Brewery
The Grange Farm 9A 3R 2P, held on a 21 year lease from the bishop of Kildare. A two storey, L-shaped seven bay house was built circa 1830 in the townland of Galloping Green South. When it was put on the market in 1953 it was described as a period house on 12 acres comprising of 2 large reception rooms, very large Adams-style music room ideal for a ballroom with 6 bedrooms, 2 dressing rooms, several staff rooms, 2 bathrooms with extensive out-offices, pleasure grounds, vegetable garden, orchards and 9 acres of pasture. The house was bequeathed to Frances Guinness the niece of Henry Darley in 1856 and various relations lived/shared accommodation there for the next 50 years. In 1857 it was described as being of modern construction with 3 sitting rooms, 11 bedrooms and 3 water closets. It had a walled garden, numerous out buildings on 65 acres. A fire broke out in the house 1930 but was contained by the fire brigade and only a hayshed was destroyed. The remains of a number of the demesne walls are located within the grounds of the new Grange Development. A written and photographic record of the old walls being demolished in the building process was a condition of the planning permission but to date have not been located.
This was home to brewer and builder Henry Darley who lived here from 1826. Henry Darley born 1770 was baptised at St Peter's, Dublin. We presume Henry married but no evidence of his wife has been found. He lived at The Grange in Stillorgan and retired from the brewery in 1837. He moved to Prospect in Roebuck for 2 years in 1839. Although he had three sons, none of these had any sons to carry on this branch of the Darley family. One of his sons also called Henry was assistant master at the Lying in Hospital. Henry was church warden of Stillorgan Parish Church in 1828 and again in 1833. He bought property at Crobane, Killarney in 1851 through the encumbered courts. Henry died in 1856 at The Grange and was buried at Stillorgan.
Another important resident was Edward Lee. Edward Lee was born circa 1853 at Tyrrellspass and married Annie Sheckleton of 1 Belgrave Square, daughter of George Sheckleton, a farmer and his wife Mary Anne Carry from Dungar County Offaly in 1878 at the Methodist Church in Monkstown. Edward worked as a draper at Penrose Bowles and Co in Kingstown and opened his first shop at Bray in 1885 and over the next few years he opened shops at Kingstown, Dublin, and Rathmines. The chain became a private limited company in 1904 and he was appointed a JP by Viscount Powerscourt. He had a high sense of justice and was the originator of the weekly half day holiday in the drapery business in 1889 and also introduced a profit sharing system into the business. He was a governor of Donnybrook Hospital and a member of the Dublin Chamber of Commerce. The Lee family lived at The Grange from 1903 and in 1912 they moved to Bellevue in Booterstown. They lost two of their sons to WW1; Joseph killed at Gallipoli in 1915 and Robert, drowned on the RMS Leinster just a month before the end of the war. Edward died at Bellevue in 1927 and Annie died in 1938 at Temple Gardens, Rathmines. Both were buried at Deansgrange.
Enoch Medcalf worked as a gardener and as a railway porter in Mountmellick where they lived at Quality row. He subsequently worked as a coachman and gardener at Galloping green. They were living on the Dublin Road, Stillorgan in 1911 but had moved to 5 Kilmacud Road by 1921. Enoch was cycling on his way back to The Grange, where he worked as a gardener for Dean Lewis Crosby when he was hit by a car at the crossroads in Stillorgan and suffered a fractured skull. Enoch died 5 Dec 1939 at St Michael’s Hospital, Dun Laoghaire, late of 5 Kilmacud Road and was buried at Deansgrange.
Photograph courtesy of 3rd Dublin Stillorgan, Scout Group
This junction marks the spot of the old brewery. An idea spot as the Glaslower stream flowed through here. Most of the stream has now been culverted but then it powered a mill wheel. Henry was a brewer with premises at 3 Johnsons Court before buying the Brewery at Stillorgan prior to 1802 (probably purchased from Mr Metcalf who was the owner from 1775). He rebuilt and extended the brewery in 1805. From 1820 to 1831 he was in partnership with Robert Guinness and traded as Darley & Guinness. Henry leased the Brewery to Richard Guinness Hill in 1852 and left most of his estate to his niece Francis Guinness when he died in 1856.
Richard Guinness Hill born circa 1829 attended Belmont School (now Belmont Nursing Home) in 1835/6. He was in Australia in 1841 and married Amy Georgina Burdett in 1852 at the British Legation in Brussels. Amy was the youngest daughter of the late William Jones Burdette and Sarah Holmes Hodgkinson of Stowey House, Somersetshire, and Twickenham, Middlesex and the great niece of Sir Francis Burdett and niece of Miss Burdett Coutts. They moved from Brussels to live in Dublin at St Stephen’s Green. Richard carried on the business of Maltster at Henry Darley old premises at Stillorgan. Richard was appointed a corn broker in 1858. Amy became pregnant for the first time in 1858 but told none of her friends. The couple left for London on 1859 and travelled by train. At Rugby, Amy went into labour and was taken from the train to a small inn called the Globe at 42 Railway Terrace and the baby was born later that night. Richard was accused with falsifying the birth of his child, telling his wife that their child was dead, and giving the child to a nurse/beggar in London, so that he could take charge of his wife's inheritance of 14 thousand per year, (if there were no children of the marriage then he got the lot by way of the marriage settlement). He was arrested, charged and imprisoned in 1861. His brother George offered to become surety for bail to the extent of £1K and he was released. The court case was dismissed. Amy died at Kensington in 1870. Richard was sued by his aunt Frances Guinness of The Grange in 1862 for non payment of a loan. He was living in Brussels in 1864 and died late of 16 Synge Street in 1871 at Portarlington, Queens County and left £1500 in personal estate.
George Robert Goodfellow was a builder and owned the Brewery from 1909 to 1922. His daughter Hannah (Kathleen) Goodfellow an only child born in 1891 at 4 Morehampton Road was baptised at St Mark’s. She was educated at Alexandra College and graduated with a degree in Astronomy from Trinity College, Dublin. She was independently wealthy having inherited her mother’s wealth and she also owned a row of houses in Donnybrook, and houses in Bray which her father had built. She was a poet and writer who published under the pseudonym Michael Scot. She was a prominent member of Cumann na mBan having joined with her friend and artist Estella Solomons. She was an activist during the Easter Rising. Her portrait by Solomons was exhibited at the Royal Hibernian Academy in 1920. When her friend Estella married James Sullivan Starkey (aka Seamus O’Sullivan) she helped both financially and with content to his publication The Dublin Magazine. She was a generous woman and supported a number of charities and was also on the Board of Governors of the Royal Hospital in Donnybrook. Before her death she donated a piece of ground at Donnybrook to An Taisce. This site is known as the Morehampton Road Wildlife Sanctuary. Kathleen never married and was buried with her parents in Mount Jerome.
[Return to bus stop and cross the road at the pedestrian lights and stop by the entrance to Dunstaffanage Hall]
Behind the gates is a Georgian two storey, three bay house with bay windows. This was home to Remmy Sheehan from 1833 to 1837 who became famous for hitting Daniel O’Connell with his umbrella at Morrisson’s Hotel on Dawson Street.
The next occupant was George Thomas Columb who was Commandant of the Royal Hibernian School. He was also an accomplished landscape painter and exhibited in the Royal Hibernian Academy.
It was also home to Richard Seymore Guinness for a number of years, Richard was a partner in his father’s firm - Guinness Mahon and left nearly ½ million in personal estate when he died in 1915.
The dispensary is the second building on your left.
Hill Crest
The Tweedy family of Nimble Fingers fame lived at Hillcrest. Hilda Tweedy was a founder member of The Irish Housewives Association (IHA) formed in 1942 and her husband Robert involved in the Laundry business donated his collection of laundry machinery to the Ulster Folk Museum.
The Dispensary courtesy of Priory Studios
Stop 7 The Dispensary
Medical dispensaries were established by government legislation in 1805 under an Act of Parliament, where they were defined as “an institution where medicine and advice are given gratis to the poor”. The dispensary system remained largely intact until the 1960s, when the present medical card and choice of doctor scheme were introduced.
The original dispensary was in use from 1828 with Dr H C Field MD as the medical officer. Ellen Cooper, a niece of Charles Sargison was caretaker/cleaner from 1905 to 1909. In 1904 the dispensary had no accommodation and was noted to be scarcely more than a shed. By 1907 there were proposals to build a new dispensary and a caretaker’s residence. The new site was south of the old dispensary. The architect was George Tighe Moore, civil engineer. He was architect and engineer to Rathdown Union Board of Guardians. He was the architect in charge of major works at the Portrane and Richmond lunatic asylums in 1908 and went on to build a housing scheme on the Coolgreaney Road at Arklow, Co Wicklow in 1910.
The Rathdown Guardians originally applied for a loan of £700 from the Local Government Board to build the new dispensary but tenders came in between £800 and £1400.
The building was thought to be too fancy with a hall, waiting room, registrars-room (for the registering of births, deaths and marriages), a surgery and kitchen downstairs but what really caused the outcry was that the building was to have four bedrooms and a bathroom upstairs which was thought to be too extravagant for a caretaker. Miss Cooper lost her job when the new dispensary was built, Mr O'Farrell, a sub sanitary and school inspector was given the job. Ellen requested payment in lieu of notice but this was denied. Denis Boland, son of the local publican was medical officer here from 1919 to 1921.
Charles Sargison born 1874 at Charlesfort, Kinsale married Jane Anne Deacon in 1897 at New Ross. Charles was living in Stillorgan by 1894 and by 1896 was sexton of Stillorgan Church having assisted his uncle, John Cooke, the previous sexton, for two years. He was caretaker of The Dispensary in 1896 but by 1901 he was given notice to quit the house there but refued. He was on a salary of £4 pa as caretaker and was looking for an increase. Charles was assistant Registrar of Stillorgan and his signature appears on the birth, marriages and death records for the parish from 1901 to 1907. He had a very distinctive legible hand and his work was very accurate. He had a shop at Grove View in Stillorgan by 1910, this was located at the bottom of what is now known as The Hill but it was his wife Jane who ran the shop. Charles died in 1937 at Sallymount Gardens in Ranelagh and was buried at Mount Jerome. After his death, land he owned at Kinnagh, Ballycullane, Co Wexford was put up for sale by his wife and his son James Joseph purchased the 28 acre farm. Jane died in 1966 and she was buried with her husband.
Charles Francis M Judd, eldest son of Michael Judd and Mary O’Donohue was born 8 Feb 1888 at Hardwick Street. He attended Blackrock College and then Trinity. He took medical exams in 1910 and part two in 1913, he then took a diploma in Public Health Medicine. He got a job as locum medical officer of Stillorgan in 1915 and stayed on in the role until 1919 when he resigned quoting ill health. It was usually a prerequisite that the medical officer had to live in the district but apparently Dr Judd could not find a suitable house, instead he lived in Murphystown House for a while before moving to Coin du Chemin in Foxrock. He was medical officer of Stillorgan when the Spanish flu took hold and his health was compromised, although in 1920 he took on the role of coroner for South Dublin. He died on his way home from Italy on 22 May 1922 where he had been seeking a cure. 1915 was a sad as well as a most extraordinary year for him. He got a permanent position in May that year, his sister Haidee died that same month followed two days later by the death Montgomery Pim at The Front (his sister Ivy's fiancée). In August 1915 he took a three week holiday. This was approved by the Rathdown Board of Guardians with a locum provided for him, (as in paid holidays). The board did not seem to be aware that this vacation was a 'busman's holiday' as he took on the job of ship's doctor aboard the White Star liner Arabic. His brother Raymond and sister Ivy were also onboard. The ship was torpedoed by a submarine and his double jobbing discovered as he proved quite the hero, helping to rescue 21 people with a damaged hand. The Rathdown Guardians expressed their surprise at him taking on a second job but wanted it noted that they were pleased he had survived. Over 400 people were on the Arabic which was travelling from Liverpool to New York. Most of the passengers were on deck having just finished breakfast and spotted the cargo steamer Dunsley in the distance being struck by a torpedo. On seeing a torpedo coming towards them they rushed to the other side of the boat, this plus the fact that each passenger had been given instruction on the use of a life belt is thought to have been why so many survived. She sank within 10 minutes, killing 44 passengers and crew, 3 of whom were American. Two war boats and the limping Dunsley picked up passengers and crew from the life rafts and brought them to Queenstown.
[Just past the dispensary is a small estate called Cedarmount which was built in the garden of Holmfels.
Stop 8 Holmfels
Bungalow built for Grace Jackson circa 1937 with a sun loggia on 1.5 acres.
Thomas Jackson eldest son, was a member of the firm Sandilands and Co, Solicitors of Fenchurch Avenue, Fenchurch-street. He was churchwarden of Springfield Church and parish. He married Grace Mary (Tooey) Orpen only surviving daughter of Arthur Herbert Orpen and sister of Sir William Orpen at Stillorgan Parish Church in 1897. Grace was the granddaughter of the Right Rev Dr Caulfeild, Bishop of Nassau and Thomas was the grandson of the Archbishop of Cape Town. Grace was. The church was decorated by local ladies with an arches of clematis, lilies, moss and gorse, the rest of the church was filled with primroses. Grace was a member of the choir and the service was fully choral. Grace wore an ivory white satin dress and her six bridesmaids were dressed in daffodil yellow and each had been presented with a gold bangle engraved with her Grace’s new initials. Her veil was fastened by a diamond star, a gift from the groom. They honeymooned in the Channel Islands and resided at 40 Clanricarde Gardens, Notting Hill Gate in London after their marriage. They moved to Holmfels at Reigate and in 1903 Thomas put the house up for sale. They moved to the Jackson family home at Chelmsford before moving to Farmleigh in Stillorgan circa 1915. Thomas died at Farmleigh in 1936 and left 28K in personal estate. Grace built a new modern house for herself and called it Holmfels. Grace died 19 Nov 1944 at Holmfels, Stillorgan. Both were buried at St Brigid’s Graveyard, Stillorgan.
Henry Francis Tivy born 19 Nov 1878 at Janeville, Montenotte, Cork started work at the Cork Constitution in 1897. He married Ellen (Neillia) Honiball Coade on 12 Feb 1907 at St Michael C of I Church in Blackrock, Cork. Ellen was the daughter of James Coade, a revenue official, and Francis Elizabeth Honiball. He was a trustee of the Cork Savings Bank, Skiddy's Charity, and St Stephen's Hospital. In 1915 his father purchased the Dublin Evening Mail Newspaper and its allied publications which included the Dublin Daily Express. He was a member of the Masonic Order and from 1929 he was controlling proprietor of the Evening Mail publications. Ellen died at Holmfels, Stillorgan in 1950. Henry died in 1960 at 14 Rosmeen gardens, Sandycove and left 121K in personal estate. He was a member of the British Numismatic Society and his coin collection was left to the National Museum of Ireland.
Daniel (Dan) Morrissey born 1895 in Silver Street, Nenagh was educated at Nenagh CBS and was working as a labourer in 1911. He married Mary Horan in 1920. Mary was a housemaid and the daughter of Martin Horan, and they had two sons and five daughters. By 1922 they were living at Summerhill, Nenagh and Dan was working as an insurance agent and was involved in the Trade Union movement. He was later an auctioneer and estate agents trading as Daniel Morrissey & Son and was elected president of the Irish Auctioneering Association in 1952. He went forward as a labour candidate in 1922 and was elected to the Dail and he served as a TD from 1922 to 1951. In 1933 he was asked and joined the Cumann na nGaedheal party. He served as Minister for Industry and Commerce from 1948 to 1951 and Minister for Justice for three months from March 1951 under Fine Gael. He established Córas Tráchtála to promote Irish exports. His most lasting legacy was the founding of the Industrial Development Authority (IDA) in 1949. He retired from politics in 1957 and went back to his auctioneering company. They specialised in selling licensed premises and also acted for a number of receivers and liquidators. They also established a vehicle and motor Commercial mart at Collinstown. They lived at The Rise in Mount Merrion before moving to Maretimo Gardens. He was the sole letting agent for Liberty Hall in 1965. Mary died in 1967 and was buried at Deansgrange. Daniel lived at Holmfels from 1971 and retired from business in 1978. He died at his residence, ‘Holmfels’ in 1981 and was buried with his wife. Lisney's acquired Morrissey's in 2018 and Daniel’s grandson joined the board of Lisneys.
Stop on the corner of Merville Road and The Rectory will be visible, also this is the road which was built over one of the Holy wells known as Darley’s Well was situated.
Stop 9 The Rectory
The original rectory was on Newtownpark Avenue on Glebe land in the townland of Stillorgan Glebe on 28 acres, the land was held by Lady Allen and leased to Peter Warren in 1758. The Glebe House was erected during the incumbency of the Rev Beather King and is possibly the house marked as Elysium beside the Widow's Asylum on Duncan's Map of 1821. It was sold by the Diocesan Council in 1886 and the name was changed to St Itas circa 1887.
Land was leased by the Representative Church Body for 995 years from Colonel Kenney of Woodview for a new rectory to be built in the townland of South Stillorgan. Building work commenced in 1881 and the building was fully paid for by 1890. The Architect was James Franklin Fuller, famous for designing Kylemore Abbey and redesigning Ashford Castle. The builders were Collen Bros of 5 Clanwilliam Place. Fuller also designed a new pulpit for the church in 1880, which was executed in oak by Henry Sharpe of Kells at a cost of £50. In 1884 gates and railings to surround the lawn were added at a cost of £20.
James Kelly born circa 1809 London was the son of Irish man Robert Kelly. He entered Trinity, BA in 1828 and MA in 1841. He was ordained in 1832 and became curate of Donaghmore in Co Derry. He arrived as the incumbent of Stillorgan Parish Church in 1839, from Sandgate in Kent. Shortly after his arrival he was in conflict with the National Board of Education whom he had heard were planning to build a national school in Stillorgan and he was at pains to find out who had made such an application for his parish. They refused to entertain him, so he went public, publishing the letters between himself and the Board in the newspaper which included his caustic comments. Shortly after that, he clashed with the archbishop for not living in the Glebe House. It transpired that he had taken alternative accommodation and rented The Glebe House to a Samuel Hitchens and the Archbishop was none too happy and wrote saying that if he did not live in The Glebe, then he had no licence to preach. This does not seem to have been resolved as a letter was then sent to the churchwardens warning them not to allow an unlicensed preacher to preach in Stillorgan Church. Given that the churchwardens were an ex-Attorney General, Mark Saurin and the eminent businessman - Matthew Pollock, the Archbishop must have been quite determined to have gone to this length. Rev Kelly published a number of works including ‘The apocalypse interpreted in the light of the Day of our Lord’ & ‘Apocalyptic Interpretation’. He also published his lectures on anti-popery. When a Dublin protestant hall was mooted to be erected in 1841, he became one of the trustees.
He married Frances Minchin, daughter of Henry Minchin from Holywell in Hampshire at Stillorgan Parish Church in 1841. Frances’s sister Georgina Minchin had married her cousin William Minchin and were living at a house called Eversham which is at the corner of Stillorgan Road (N11) and Newtownpark Avenue. When they married, Frances brought with her, a dowry of five thousand pounds. He resigned in 1845 and was incumbent of Kiliskey parish from 1845 to 1848. He was minister of St Peter’s Chapel Westminster from 1848 to 1869 and perpetual curate of St George’s Liverpool from 1863 to 1869.
The couple were separated in 1869 after a spectacular divorce case in which his wife Frances, sought a judicial separation and alimony based on mental cruelty. The Rev James was suspended from duty and defended himself as he considered himself to be quite expert having brought numerous libel cases against newspapers, who reported on his outcry when a Jew was elected Mayor of Liverpool and a Roman Catholic was appointed chaplain to the local Gaol. The judge, Lord Penzance granted a judicial separation and alimony having heard that James had squandered Mrs Minchin’s dowry plus another five thousand that had been bequeathed to her by her sister. He also took into account that James was responsible for the estrangement of the couple's son. Eccentric and refractory, the Rev James Kelly would spend the rest of his life involved in litigation of some type, thinking that every single person he met was against him. He died in 1892 at Hatterly Street, Liverpool, his son at his bedside. He may have married a second time as his obituary mentions a little daughter, but ‘little’ may only refer to her diminutive size. He was buried at Smithdown Road cemetery.
The house was home to many of Stillorgan incumbents but in 1929 it was rented to Lady McLaughlin, the widow of Sir Henry McLaughlin. Henry was born in 1876 was educated at the Royal Academy in Belfast and Mount Radford in Exeter. He married Ethel Mary Mollan, daughter of William Stuart Mollan and Louisa Margaret Calcutt on 25 Apr 1899 at the Registrar's Office on Fitzroy Avenue, Belfast. Henry was a member of the Plymouth Brethren. Henry became Chairman of Messrs McLaughlin and Harvey, building contractors and was president of the Building Employers Association, Dublin. They lived at Dartmouth Square before moving to Calpe in Blackrock. During WW1 Henry was the Hon. Director General of Recruitment in Ireland and of the Central Recruiting Committee from 1915 to 1916 and Director of the Red Cross Day fund. The Lord Lieutenant appointed him Director-General of Demobilisation and Re-employment of Sailors and Soldiers for Ireland in 1919. The same year he was appointed to the War Pensions Committee and received a Knighthood. Known for his organisation skills he was made director of the Dublin Hospitals fete in 1920, that same year he appealed for clemency for Kevin Barry. A football fan, he was President of the Irish Free State Football Association and an organiser of the Tailteann Games. He was chairman of the Irish Kennel Club and a breeder of Scottish Deerhounds. His own dogs were CH. Marquis of Cranna and CH. Countess of Cranna.
He had a commitment from Lord Kitchener that ex-service men would be looked after, plus Lloyd George had promised ‘Houses fit for Heroes’ on their return. In 1921 he arranged the purchase of 60 houses at Clontarf and he transferred land purchased at Killester which was being used for agricultural training to the Local Government Board to build 287 houses to be given to ex-service men. The scheme also employed about 120 ex-soldiers and sailors to build these houses. By the time the scheme was finished in 1923 political power had been transferred to the new Free State and these schemes were run by the Irish Soldiers and Sailors Trust. By 1925 he was sadly disillusioned as only 1 out of 72 heroes had received houses on their return.
They moved to Riversdale in Monkstown circa 1920. Henry died suddenly on his way to work on 21 Nov 1927 and his funeral was held in Belfast. He left 10K in personal estate. After his death Lady McLaughlin moved to The Rectory in Stillorgan. She was much in demand to open charity events and fetes and was a frequent visitor to St Helen’s, home of the Nutting family in Stillorgan. Their daughter married at St Brigid’s Church Stillorgan in 1931. The reception was held at The Rectory to which more than 100 guests were invited. Ethel died 19 Jun 1950 at The Chalet, Westminster Road, Foxrock and her funeral was to Belfast City Cemetery.
Cross Merville Road and pass St Brigid’s Parish Hall (note the blocked up doorway in the wall) and stop outside the large church gate beside the old school house. The gate piers into the parish centre originally held globe lanterns that had been converted to electricity. They globes were replaced in 1966 as they could not be repaired and the old lamps were sold to an American.
Photograph of St Brigid's Stillorgan courtesy of Olive Casey Conroy, 2024
Stop 10 The Church & Old School House
The original Celtic church fell into ruins after the dissolving of the monasteries and was in a ruinous state for nearly 200 years. In 1706 Archbishop King was instrumental in bringing about the building of a new church on the site with the help of Viscount Allen. The new church was finished in 1712, but it took nearly 50 years for a clergyman to be appointed and by then the church had fallen into disrepair again. During this time the churchyard was still in use for burials. The earliest note of a burial in the register is 1691 and the earliest memorial is also from that year, although earlier burials of the Wolverston and Wingfield families within the church ruins are well documented. In 1760 the church was restored by the generosity of Lord Chancellor Jocelyn; this was the same year that the parishes of Stillorgan and Kilmacud were separated from Monkstown and Rev Beather King was appointed incumbent. In 1812 The tower and northern aisle was added and this is the church we see today. Over the last 200 years the church structure has changed little but the building has been well maintained. The internal accommodation has been modernised as needed including a major refurbishment in 1927 which was designed by Richard Orpen and paid for by Sir William Orpen in memory of their father. Town major Henry Charles Sirr who arrested Lord Edward Fitzgerald had his own pew here 1803/4.
Here we also have the old school house now in use as a residence and playschool. It is not clear when the school first opened, but in April 1787 an advert was placed in Saunder’s Newsletter that a parish clerk/school master was required at Stillorgan. By 1804, charity sermons were being held twice a year towards the upkeep of the school which had over 50 children of both sexes, and of all denominations who were being taught to read and write and given instruction in works of industry. By 1835 we can confirm that the school was situated here and educated up to 200 children. In 1927 the school was brought under the National School Scheme, re-named St Brigid’s National School and is still running, albeit on another site on the grounds, as a National School today.
Sarah Ruddell, third daughter of Thomas Ruddell and Sarah McKee born 1871 at Moira married Henry Walter Warry at Moira, Co Down in 1909. Henry was a commercial clerk in the drug trade living at Phibsboro. He was the son of Walter Warry, a printer and Jemima Priest from Taunton in Somerset who moved to Dublin in the late 1870s. Together with his brothers Sam and Charlie he founded the Clonliffe Harriers. Sarah qualified as a teacher from the Church of Ireland Training College in 1892 and was Principal of Moira Church of Ireland School in Bottier, Co Down in 1905, a position she had to vacate to live with her husband in Dublin. Sarah started working in Stillorgan School in 1912 and stayed for 23 years. They lived at School Buildings and their only child Gladys Sarah Jemima Warry born 1910 died from measles aged four at the Deramore Arms Hotel, Moira.
When the school came under the National School System in 1927, Sarah was earning £56 per annum. Every year she would send postcards from her holiday in Co Down to each of her pupils. By all accounts Sarah was a wonderful teacher and one parish document records that, 'she has justified in every respect the high recommendation with which she came to us.' Henry died at the Adelaide Hospital in 1930 late of School Buildings, Stillorgan. J C Nichols was in charge of the funeral arrangements and Henry was buried at Old Drumcondra Church Yard. Sarah retired in 1935 and was given a purse with 30 sovereigns and an illuminated address as a retirement gift. Sarah died at School Buildings in 1936.
The adjoining graveyard contains many thousands of burials but few have headstones. The churchyard predates the disestablishment of the Church of Ireland in 1869 and was open for burial to all those who lived within the boundaries of the parish, whatever their denomination. The graveyard was mapped and the memorials from nearly 500 headstones were recorded in 2013, a transcription and a map are available at https://www.stbrigids300.com/
Take the second left and walk past the dilapidated swimming pool and towards Kilmacud Crokes clubhouse.
Stop 11 Glenalbyn
A three bay late Georgian three bay, two storey over part basement house built circa 1802 with original doorcase and fanlight and an unsympathetic 20th century porch. The rear of the house has a bow return with a conical roof. There were two gate lodges, one on the Lower Kilmacud Road and the other on Glenalbyn Road. The garden was enclosed by a 12’ wall and it had a coach house and stabling for 8 horses, these buildings are now demolished but the giant sequoia trees and parts of the old garden walls have survived.
It was called Janeville originally, possibly named for the wife of George Tinkler, a paper manufacturer whose business was at 42 South Great George's Street in Dublin City. He appears to be the builder and the first occupant of the house. It was for sale or let on 13 acres along with several houses in the village from 1805 to 1807. The Kilmacud stream ran through the grounds which was known locally in the last century as Daly's River. The house was reached by traversing an elaborate arched bridge with the name plaque 'Janeville'. The house sat on 19 acres in 1857. The name of the house had changed to Glen Albyn by 1885 and was known as Glenalbyn by 1903. The house and grounds are now home to Kilmacud Crokes and have been much extended.
James Wilkinson born circa 1836 at Meath went into partnership with his brother Richard in 1867 and they traded from 50-51 Smithfield as R and J Wilkinson, Master Salesmen, Seed Merchants and Corn & Hay Factors. They also provided a cattle park/lairage opposite the market. In 1883 they moved to 40-41 Prussia Street when sales of cattle were restricted to the Dublin cattle market due to foot and mouth disease. By 1895 R & J Wilkinson, along with Ganleys and Gavin Low, were selling outside the market due to the lack of an auction ring for store cattle. He married Anne Wilton Gibson in 1870 at Stonehall Parish Church, Westmeath. In 1901 they were living at Glenart, Grove Avenue Stillorgan and his unmarried sister Hannah Maria lived with them. By 1904 they were living at Glenn Albyn. John died at the Crichton Royal Institute, Scotland in 1906 late of Glen Albyn and left 11K in personal estate. After John's death Anne moved with her sister in law Hannah to 3 Cowper Villas. Anne died in 1943 aged 96 at Cowper Road. Their eldest child John Samuel Wilkinson was born 1871. He married Evelyn Doris Warner eldest daughter of William Cyrus Warner a civil servant in 1911 at Christ Church, Rathgar, County Dublin. John was an auctioneer and a livestock dealer with premises at 40/41 Prussia Street. They lived at Glenalbyn where their five children were born. The were members of the Stillorgan and Foxrock Horticultural society. John died in 1946 at Glenalbyn aged 75 years and Evelyn died in 1973 aged 89 years. The Park Shopping Centre built on the Prussia Street site is still run by the Wilkinson family.
The Village café within the Kilmacud Crokes complex may be open.
Hope you enjoyed your time with us today and that you will join us on our next short walk around the area.
The Youwho team
© June Bow & Karen Poff - December 2025